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 Location:   Library | Horse Care  

How to Feed the Grass Kept Horse or Pony

In the wild horse's pick out the best grass to eat and then move on - they are browsers. If you have ever grazed your horse in a head collar, you will know he does not stay in one place and eat all the grass. He takes one mouthful and then moves several steps before taking the next, so therefore in a day, with no fencing to keep him in, he would have wandered a considerable distance.

The horse's digestive system has evolved to cope with small quantities of fibrous food regularly passing through it. Whether in the stable or in a field the horse is dependant upon us for his food and water to keep his digestive system working efficiently and if we copy how the horse eats naturally we cannot go wrong.

Pony eating

The horse need plenty of bulk food all year round to keep him fit and well, They do most of their grazing from dawn to dusk, so in winter they have less time in which to eat sufficient food. We as owners must be constantly aware that they have access to enough food for their needs.

Horses need food to do many things: -

    Keep them alive,
    Keep them warm,
    Keep them in good condition,
    Give them enough energy to work.

What to Feed

Each horse and pony is an individual and has slightly different requirements, but there are some basic guidelines to follow and the diet can be adjusted to suit the individual, depending on how he looks and behaves.

  HAY/GRASS CONCENTRATES
Resting horses and most ponies
100%
 
Light work
(Hacks/evenings and weekends)
80%
20%
Medium work
(Schooling/jumping)
70%
30%

Ponies will do very well on either seed or meadow hay, but it must be of good quality. If you can only give one type of extra food, good, clean sweet-smelling hay will keep most cobs and ponies in good condition throughout the winter.

When to Feed

Hay should be fed in the morning and again late in the afternoon, at the same time each day, horses are creatures of habit and will be waiting at the gate.

How much extra food you give will depend on a number of factors: -

  • The quality and quantity of grass in the filed
  • The type of work the horse is doing
  • The time of year.

If the year is split onto four seasons we can highlight when the horse is likely to need extra food.

December to April

Horses will need hay twice a day and if the horse is being worked he will need a small concentrate feed once a day. Ponies will usually be fine on just hay unless they are working very hard (hunting/eventing/show jumping).

May to June

The weather is warming up (well, sometimes) and the grass is growing. Ponies may need to be stabled or have their grazing restricted for a few hours a day or they will get too fat.

July to September

Ponies and Cobs will live out on good grazing without extra food. But during the summer holidays they may work long hours without access to much food. They may require a small haynet or maybe a small feed (pony nuts), especially if they are going to lots of shows and working quite hard.

Do not forget to give them plenty of access to water.

October to December

The nights are drawing in, the weather is getting colder, the grass is not growing so quickly and has fewer nutrients. Hay may now be needed, in small quantities at first, to supplement the diet.

How Much to Feed

If you are unsure of how much to feed your horse or pony, it is always better to start with a high fibre (grass/hay) and low concentrate (pony nuts) diet. Then if the horse behaves well and maintains his weight, and is not too lively or too sluggish then the balance of feed is correct.

If the horse becomes silly and too energetic then the concentrate ration should be reduced and more hay fed, however, if the horse is sluggish then he needs a little more concentrate. Always use a low-energy feed for light work i.e. horse and pony nuts or a light non-heating coarse mix.

Quantities of Hay

.
 15hh
kgs (lbs)
14hh
kgs (lbs)
13hh
kgs (lbs)
12hh
kgs (lbs)
11hh
kgs (lbs)
January 12.5 (27.5) 8 (17.5) 6 (12.5) 5 (11) 4.5 (10)
February 12.5 (27.5) 6 (12.5) 6 (12.5) 5 (11) 4.5 (10)
March 12.5 (27.5) 6 (12.5) 6 (12.5) 5 (11) 4.5 (10)
April 9 (20) 5.5 (12) 3.5 (8) 3.5 (7) 2.5 (6)
May - - - - -
June - - - - -
July - - - - -
August - - - - -
September - - - - -
October 9 (20) 5.5 (12) 3.5 (8) 3.5 (7) 2.5 (6)
November 12.5 (27.5) 8 (17.5) 6 (12.5) 5 (11) 4.5 (10)
December 12.5 (27.5) 8 (17.5) 6 (12.5) 5 (11) 4.5 (10)

REMEMBER to change your horse or pony's diet slowly in April and September to allow the bacteria in the horse's gut to adjust to the different feed, i.e. increase/decrease the quantity of hay over a two or three week period.



Comments
If you have a specific tip, experience or comment relevant to this article please post a comment below.
We are unable to answer individual questions through the comments system. The New Rider Message Board is a better place to post specific questions.

una browne   20th Apr 01

Hi

I want to get a horse, and live on a farm, there are 6 acres around the house which I plan to use. During the winter sheep were wintered on the land and nothing has been done to it since. Would there be any potential problems regarding worms, etc which could affect a horse.

Also I have been told that if there is too much grass the horse can become ill. Could you clarify this issue for me.

I appreciate your help.

loz   4th Jun 01

I was wondering if you could tell me how I could restrict the horses grass intake without stabling as if I get my horse he will be kept in a field with quite a few other horses so I couldn't section off part of the field as I do not own it!
And also could you please tell me how would I feed my horse its horse nuts without letting the other horses eat it. Would I have to hold a bucket?
Sorry but I'm not too good at this kind of thing you could call it common sense!

Jan   2nd Dec 01

Hi Una,

There will be absolutely no chance of sheep passing worms to your horse of visa versa because the digestive systems are completely different. In fact the sheep will help to keep your horse clear of worms and eat the grasses that horses do not, it is an excellent combination for good pasture management. The only disadvantage is that both crop the grass very short and you may have to subsidise your horses diet with hay during the winter but in the summer there will be too much grass and you may have to restrict his intake of grass. This can be done by either stabling for a period of time or by the use temporary fencing. The average rule of thumb is one horse per 1.5 acres of grassland (depending upon the quality of grasses and soil type).

The most common problems from too much grass are that horse/pony suffers from are getting too fat to the point of obesity or laminitis.

Obesity makes it difficult to find a saddle to fit the horse and also exercising a fat horse must be done with great care because of causing stress to the internal organs particularly the heart.

The most common causes of laminitis are too much rich spring grass or too much protein within the diet, which causes the sensitive laminae in the foot to swell thus causing the horse/pony great pain and again he is unable to be ridden until he is better.

Also have a look at the articles on:-
How to Worm the Grass Kept Horse,
Managing Fields
The Worm Life Cycle
How to Administer Anthelmintic Drugs
How the Digestive System Worms

All these were written with the grass kept horse in mind.



Jan   2nd Dec 01

Hi 1oz

How many horse on how many acres? Generally speaking, too many horses over-graze most rented ground, more than grass can sustain at certain times of year. You may find you have to supplement his diet, certainly through the winter and worm him every six weeks to keep your horse with a reduced worm burden as I assume the field will not be skipped every day.

As for feeding and holding the bucket (as you wrote this sometime ago I hope you are still in one piece, not a good idea)! All the other horse/ponies in the field will crowd round you and try to force their heads in the bucket pushing you and your horse out of the way and this will cause a huge battle where everything around the bucket – two or four legs is at great risk of injury. The best way is to leave the bucket in your car or outside the field, catch you horse and take him out of the field and a few yards away from the gate (preferably out of sight of the other horses) and quietly feed him.


Leaf   29th Dec 01

I am thinking of riding a pony across Canada in the summer time starting in Alberta. I am wondering if it is possible to just let the pony eat grass along the way? Supposing I ride for
6-7 hours everyday at a slower pace. How much time should i leave each day for grazing and should i sulpement it with some hay or pony nuts? Any hints at all wiould be really appreciated

elliott   2nd Mar 02

yo, Me and my mum are going to be bying and hopefully riding hacking-jumping horses. how much does feed and hay cost?+ how much would a horse like this cost(15.2hh)and what are the things to look out for in a horse?

Jan   3rd Mar 02

Hi Elliot,
My basic 'rule of thumb' for how much does it cost to keep a horse is - the same amount as keeping a second car and a not very reliable one at that!

Kylie   3rd Mar 02

Hi,
I was wondering what to feed my horse in the way of concentrates.
15.1 hh
Standard breed
9 years old
riden very weekend and some nights.
x trotter
Training to jump, schooling.
Please can you help!
Thank you
Kylie

Jessica   23rd Mar 02

How much does the average hay barrel cost???


kim brack   28th Apr 02

We just got a shetland pony and she is very very poor what should i feed her to pick her up?

me2   24th Jun 02

To Kim Brack: if you stiil have problems with your Shetland I may be able to help. ponyman@onetel.net.uk

kay   10th Jul 02

I have a new horse. He is a little skittish about his new surroundings.
We are keeping him in a small grassy pen with his stall. Right now there
is a lot of grass, do I need to suppelment his diet with grain, or hay?
He is 18 years old.

lisa   30th Oct 02

I have a 16.3hh Irish Draught horse,9 yrs old.He is kept on sandy soil and I am concerned at the lack of grass available for him to graze on. I am givivg him 6/7 wafers of good hay a day and 2 feeds of chaff and low cal hard food. I would like your advice about feeding forage and hay please.

Arabella   8th Jan 03

Hello,

I've heard people swear by a corn diet (as the hard feed part of their diet) for horses and was wondering if anybody has anything to say on the subject. In my case I have recently acquired a couple of Shetlands and have to say they do love it (I only give them a few handfulls an evening to supplement the scarce grazing).

karen   2nd Feb 03

I own a 20yr old 15h bay mare,who is in light work at the moment,hoping to do more with her in the summer,she currently has two concentrate feeds a day which consists of hi fi lite,alfa beat,and top spec,I dont want to give her anything which will make her fizzy as im a very nervous rider,so was advised to give her the feeds as above,the problem is she is lacking topline,belly fine but aross her withers and hind quarters she is lacking some condition,i thought about giving her topline conditioning cubes,but heard they can perk the horse up,i want to give her something with lots of vitamins etc cos of her age,but i'm just at a loose end any suggestions please.

Meryn   27th Feb 03

Hi Una Browne.
Thats great that you want a horse but do you your self know enough about caring for one and riding or does perhaps a family member know enough? If you don't that will be a problem for you and your horse unless you get help at a pony club!

6 acres is more than enough for one horse but that doesn't mean that the horse will get sick from over eating. Of course a horse can but you should fence off every 1-2 acres into several paddocks to graze your horse on so it isn't possible to over feed your horse. It will also help with the grazing of all your land and would make your solo horse happy to have a friend! My email is shetlandshortstuff@hotmail.com if you want to get hold of me and im happy to help!

Thanx
Meryn


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