What bit?

[HorseManiac]

Dinky has no brakes in a snaffle.. and overbends in a pelham.. what bit would you use for showing too??

Thanks:)

[Harry Hobbes]

A Cherokee Bridle or a Jaquima.

Best regards,
Harry

[prettybluepony]

Can you tell us more about the horse? What bit do you use except the pelham, and all the types, mouthpieces etc.? Have you had the saddle, back, and teeth checked? You could try changing bits around, increasing excercise, doctoring your feeds?

You could try a hanging cheek snaffle, or a bubble bit with two reins? For showing I would use a double bridle if you have an experianced double bridle instructor, and can hold two reins, they have a nice look, and you have good control, but only use the curb when needed not all the time!!! Long post lol! I like to ramble!

[belle]

I was going to suggest a hanging cheek snaffle too.

A double could also be another possibility, riding just off the snaffle rein.:)

[doris]

When you ride in a Pelham, do you use two reins or one rein with roundings?

[Daffy Dilly]

Forget the double completely.

Do you know the reasoning behind why you have no brakes in a snaffle, and the overbending in the pelham?

Beginning with the snaffle.. does Dinky open his mouth? Set his neck against you? Hollow? etc etc

In the pelham, how were you riding? I assume you used two reins and a normal curb chain? Was the bit fitted correctly? Were you maintaining an even contact on all four reins? Just the snaffle reins? etc etc

I suspect, although I may be wrong, that the reasoning behind him overbending in the pelham is too much curb rein and not enough leg. Pictures would probably help with figuring both cases out, so we can see his way of going.

If you can sort out the over bending, then I would be inclined to show in the pelham. However, it sounds like schooling could be the underlying issue if pain is ruled out, and I would aim to do a million transitions and figures whilst schooling in the snaffle, so that you do have brakes in the snaffle.

Ideally a good show horse should look like a push button, effortless ride (even if it isn't), so schooling is just as important as it is for dressage, especially when you're after the P(UK) qualifiers ;)

[HorseManiac]

Ok thanks:) I was thinking staying in the pehlam but using the 2 reins instead of with the rounding.
Im at school so cant say much else :)

[jenren!!]

I've heard a waterford is good for those strong hosses.

[puzzles]

here's an extract from the Myler range website:

Helpful hints
1. Take your time. Knowing whether a bit is going to work or not takes time. Sometimes a horse will let you know that it is the right bit or the wrong bit in as little as 20 minutes, but often it takes several rides in a particular bit to know for sure. Plan on between three and ten rides to let you decide if a bit is going to be the right choice for you and your horse.

2. Properly introduce the bit. It is important to be able to “read” your horse with a new bit. The Mylers do not recommend using any tack or equipment which will infringe your horse's ability to communicate with you. Therefore, it is not advisable to use flash nose bands, figure-8 nose bands, martingales, draw reins, tie-downs, etc. If you do use a nose band, it should be a regular caveson and worn loose enough that the jaw is free. (Space for two fingers or more usually works . . .)

When trying a new bit, give your horse plenty of time to get used to the taste and the feel of the new bit. Bridle your horse with the new bit and simply let him stand unmounted with the bit. Let him investigate it with his tongue. He may chew a little bit more than normal while he discovers the new feel. After 10 to 15 minutes he should be more relaxed.

The next step is to simulate the bit's action to your horse prior to mounting. This way he can anticipate what the bit will do without having to concentrate on your other cues if mounted. This is also a way for you to anticipate his behavior with the bit. Standing near his left shoulder, place the reins over his neck. Grab both reins just in front of the withers to simulate where the reins would be when mounted. Next, steady the rein in one hand and gently apply rein pressure with the other, activating the bit and asking your horse to relax at the poll. When the horse gives to the pressure, release with your hand. He may take a step or two backwards or forwards as he gets used to the action. Ideally, your horse should gently lower his head onto the vertical, releasing his own pressure and learning to stay in his “comfort zone.” After some time, he should not be stepping forward or backward in this exercise. This exercise is a great way to introduce bits as well as supple a horse prior to work. The Mylers highly recommend working with your horse on the ground as part of the transition to a new bit.



3. Anticipate some resistance. If your horse has been resistant in his current bit, there is a strong likelihood he will be resistant in his new bit. Simply put - he is going to try what he knows. Here are some suggestions on how to deal with particular forms of resistance.

Chomping and chewing: This may take some patience on your part and some trust on your horse’s part. Horses generally chomp and chew as a resistance to too much tongue pressure. With your new bit, you should not have as much tongue pressure, but it may take your horse some time to realize this. He will need to “trust” his new bit from restricting his tongue as his previous bit did. So, give your horse time to learn to relax, this may take days. Next, release your horse when he is in position. If you are constantly applying pressure on his mouth, he may not have opportunity to relax.

Inverting: Inversion is fairly common. The main thing your horse is doing is controlling the application of the bit’s action by staying up out of the “pressure zone.” Your new bit should give the pressure you need to ask him to relax at the poll to his “comfort zone” and give him the pressure relief he's looking for. Many horses will try to invert with the new bit; you will need to ask the horse to go forward and apply consistent pressure until they relax at the poll. Once the horse relaxes at the poll, release rein pressure. Always ask the horse to go forward. Some horses may resist by stopping, flipping their head, grabbing the bit, etc., but always ask the horse to go forward. If the horse needs some encouragement to relax at the poll, here's an option to try.

First, simulate the bit’s action while on the ground as discussed in #2. Next, while mounted, warm your horse up on a loose rein. After 10 minutes or so, ask your horse to relax at the poll with some rein pressure. Try circling and using inside rein pressure, pulled toward your outside hip, and subtly “bump” the inside rein. Once the horse relaxes at the poll, release rein pressure. If still resistant and not improving, try the following: set the horse’s head where you would like it. Gather up your reins, keep contact on the horse’s mouth and double the reins over from one hand to the other, like a jockey. Let out 1 1/2’ to 2’ of rein so that the horse has a “comfort zone” to go to, fix your hand position, keep a steady feel of the reins and “lock” your elbows. As you ask your horse to go forward, let the horse pull into your hands and then release himself by relaxing at the poll. It may feel like your horse is getting a bit worse before getting better, but as long as he learns to release himself, you are headed in the right direction. Keep these sessions brief and always reward when the horse is responding the way you want. Leverage and curb pressure can be very helpful for horses that invert by effectively rolling the mouthpiece downward. Be sure your curb strap or chain is adjusted properly with room for only two fingers. Too loose and the cheek rotates too far around before engaging the curb chain. The curb chain hits too late and too hard, possibly upsetting your horse and not giving you the control you are looking for. Too tight and the horse is not rewarded with a comfort zone and is uncomfortable and distracted. When adjusted correctly, the curb chain engages with slight rotation of the cheek, adding more downward pressure to the mouthpiece, offering more control and encouragement for the horse to relax at the poll and stay balanced. Because an inverted horse is not used to working while relaxed at the poll, he will tire quickly and easily. Keep sessions short and always finish on a good note where the horse releases himself.

Information about 'Resistance'
Does your horse resist his current bit? If so, your horse is not relaxed in the bridle. Therefore, your communication is ineffective. Learn to recognize the signs of resistance:

• Behind the bit
• Inversion/above the bit
• Not stopping/running through the bit
• Dropping a shoulder
• Overactive mouth


With resistance, go softer, offering your horse a bit with less points of pressure. Here’s a few suggestions for resistance:

• for behind the bit, try a bit with less tongue pressure and possibly Independent Side Movement.™
• for inversion, try a bit with tongue pressure and tongue relief.
• for not stopping, consider a shank or combination bit with leverage pressure and mouthpieces
offering some tongue,bar and palate pressure.
• for dropping a shoulder, select a bit which offers Independent Side Movement.™
• for the overactive mouth, look for a bit which offers less points of pressure, especially tongue pressure.

Selecting the right bit
Myler Bits work as a system.
Every horse and rider combination has specific needs and therefore require the proper bit. As the needs of horse and rider change over time and progress, it may become necessary to upgrade to a different bit, or downgrade depending upon the level of your horse’s training.
In order to properly bit your horse it is essential to consider all of the following factors.

good luck!

[puzzles]

god it's long!
:-O