New horse owner queries - hope someone can take the time to help

[trowaymare]

:eek:Just wondered if anyone could give me some advice before I decide to own my own horse. I have done the horse owners course but it doesn't answer my specific questions.

1)
I have x2 3 acre fields. Two cobs have grazed them and have made the top one very horse sick as droppings have never been removed and they are permanantly out. (Not my horses by the way)
The bottom 3 acre field is notas bad so I was just going to pick the few droppings up,check for poisonous plants and safety etcand then have a walkway from this field to my stable in the field with the other 2 horses. (SEPERATED BY ELECTRIC FENCING THOUGH) ANY COMMENTS ON WHETHER THIS SEEMS A GOOD IDEA IN THE SHORT TERM??

2)
My local farmer plans to harrow the top field and seed with meadow seed? ANYONE any advise on this,whether there is a better option to ensure the grass is not too rich and also when to let horses return to grazing on it?

3)
For STRIP GRAZING for a 15.2hh and a 9hh donkey (ah bless) what would you reccommend the 3 acre fields be split in to and how often to rotate??

4)
Is a donkey a good companion and less trouble than another horse??

5)
Is rubber matting neccessary for stable walls??

6)
Luckily the 2 cobs are departing my field in March (Whooohooo) but i should have my own horse before then. Is there anything other than worms my horse could contract from them and would they need worming along with my horse (with the owners permission of course) even if seperated by fencing? Also could the grass be too worm infested for grazing or would it be ok with the obvious addittion of haylege to supplement?

Many thanks any help is much appreciated

trowaymare

[*Sez*]

I'm afraid I can't answer all your questions, but I will try with a few.

I believe you can take samples from the droppings and get a worm count done. Personally, I would worm your horse when it arrives - I assume the other horses' owner keeps them up to date on a worming programme - if they don't, they probably should get theirs done, too!

No, you don't need rubber matting for stable walls. In fact you don't "need" rubber matting at all, but some people prefer it, as it saves time and bedding when mucking out.

As far as I am aware, donkeys are suitable companions for horses :)

As far as splitting the fields, I was always taught that you use 1.5 acres for the first horse, and an additional acre for any other horses. I don't know anything about rotation, I'm afraid, other than that it occurs! :o

If you decide to split the field with electric fencing, can I recommend electric TAPE and not WIRE. The livery yard Salsa normally lives at has wire fences, which is more suitable for sheep (apparently). I have lost count of the number of horses who have required stitches because they have gotten tangled in the wires when the electricity has gone down. My friend's mare almost lost a hind hoof after getting tangled in it and was on box rest for months. I am very fortunate that Salsa met electric fencing for the first time when I bought him, touched it with his nose and got a zap - he has never ever gone near it since, but it's the only concern I have about that yard. Unfortunately, it's so large that the owners won't pay out what it will cost to get electrical tape in, and given that over 150 horses live there, I suppose it is a small minority who have actually had accidents. But anyway, the thicker electrical tape is supposed to be more suitable for horses :D

Good luck!

[eml]

I will try to answer your questions!

You say the field is horse sick because droppings haven't been removed, has the field been topped or any other methods of management used? Two cobs are unlikely to make three acre field horse sick unless it has been totally neglected for several years.

I personally would rather clean and top the field, reseeding really means the field is out of use for a long time while the new grass establishes

Not all horse like donkeys and you have to be aware of lungworm implications, if you don't currently own a donkey it wouldn't be my first choice as a companion. i wouldn't strip graze unless the new animals have laminitus issues but rotate the two fields when the cobs go.

As far as the other questions go, no stables do not need rubber matting on walls, worms do not cross from field to field and haylage would depend on the horse you bought.

March is not far away and I personally would wait until you had free use of your land before looking for a horse but more importantly I would consider if you have enough knowledge to have a horse at home, it is a major commitment

[Daffy Dilly]

I think the other questions have been answered, but I would say that I believe (never owned one) that donkeys like donkey friends, and although horses may cope, donkeys ought to be kept in pairs. I'm Big Ears would know if you wanted to PM her. :)

I would also second EML's point about keeping a horse at home if it is the first time you're owning. I would be tempted, assuming you can afford to, repair and rest the land you have over the summer, perhaps cut hay off it, and keep your new horse at a livery yard where you will have support, for a year. I say a year, because then you've gone through a full cycle of different feeding, worming, jabs, teeth and exercising with the help at hand if necessary.

I know when I had my first ponies on loan, I panicked at silly things. A mare lay down because she was tired and wouldn't get back up, and there was me panicking that she was dying or pregnant. :p

Another advantage is that you can get just your horse, and then you will have time to find a companion. The major disadvantage that I can see, is all the conflicting advice when you are new to something! I hated that. :o

Good luck :D

[Stormin]

Hi,
I'd just like to add to the point about being responsible for horses at home.
I've been around horses for many many years and I've had mine at home for just under a year and a half.
It's completely different to having horses at a livery yard - you have to think of everything, and in advance is even better !
You have to be very organized and motivated to do most things on your own.

[Spuds]

when it comes to rotating the fields, all i have done is divided my land into 4 different paddocks of about 1.5 acres, and both my horses are fine in there for 3 months, and then i move them into the next field. it works out that by the time i get through a year, ie used each paddock once, and its had chance to be fertilized and grow back for the next year. you could even do 3x 4 month slots, and keep a paddock for making hay, or use it as spare grazing ans also use part of it as a school.
hope this helps!
spudsx

[Joyscarer]

I have 5 acres which I have divided into 3 paddocks using wooden posts and electric tape. Beware though, the wooden posts mean that it is more work for the farmer when being topped and rolled etc and can work out a lot more expensive. He doesn't get a clear run at it and has to follow fence lines which is time consuming.

The 1st paddock is kept mainly for riding and exercising. I bung the horses on there when needed to keep the grass down. One paddock I keep as their summer paddock and the other as their winter as is has more protection from the elements. When the fields are topped and rolled in March, some spraying will be required and the horses will be kept on the riding paddock as weirdly enough it is in the best condition of all of them. Also if you have to manually shift water then you might want the nearest paddock to the yard for your summer paddock so you don't have to shift the water so far when they are drinking the most.

I don't just give them the run of the paddocks when they are moved, I strip graze them which means moving the fences when needed so a little more of each paddock is available. It makes poo picking a lot easier too. I always look out for poisonous plants everytime I poo pick rather than doing a specific sweep every couple of weeks. I move the fence when the horses have started to graze the rest of the field more than the strip just revealed. My sec d lives on fresh air and this helps with weight management too.

Think about what paddock would be easier for winter, you want them as close to the yard as practically possible because of mud issues. However you might find like I have that due to drainage and natural protection the furthest paddock awasy is most suitable!

I would get your fields attended to before you bring on your horse. Start with a clean slate. Makes things easier.

I Joy has been at 2 yards since I got her, and I wormed her before each move even if she had just been done. All horses sharing land must be wormed at the same time.

[Bebe]

I think most of your questions have been answered but one thing you will want to consider if you do go ahead with allowing the farmer to reseed one of your fields is, that if you do, you're effectively going to lose use of it for a year, possibly more.

Horses trash land, it's a given. Newly seeded grass needs a lot of time to become established enough to withstand even well managed equine grazing. If you turn out on it too soon you'll run the risk of the sward not being strong enough to hold up to hooves tearing into it,which means it'll turn into a muddy field very quickly. There's also the additional risk of it not being well enough established to recover come Spring if you graze it too early.

Might be something to consider before you make any decisions. It may be more effective to clear the manure, any unwanted plants, etc and then rest it for 6 months or so, top it (or even take a hay cut off it) and then use it for grazing.

[anna15]

sorry have never managed my own fields before so would be useless for your otehr questions, but i have come accross alot of horses which hate donkeys! my friends horse litterally stops dead and trys to run away when faced with one even though its in another field. i only know of one horse which mixes with them, there is no right or wrong with finding your horse a companion, just depends on what your horse likes.:)

[chestnut-mare]

Hi, just thought I'd add my experiences to your questions. You don't say where you live or what sort of ground you are on. We used to be on lime soil which was great for drainage and rarely got boggy. We had one field completely ploughed and re-seeded in the autumn then let the horses onto it the following spring. If you are just topping & raking & seeding then it depends on the soil and weather. One yard we were at used to harrow and seed while the horses were still in it - eek however... the field were well managed in that there was a regular worming programme and fields were poo picked daily. I agree that you should worm your new horse straight away and try to clear the field you choose to use first. My mum used to take 2 or 3 of the Cleethorpes beach donkeys in for the winter and she put them in with her pet pony for company. He loved the company and they got on great but she did get lots of horrified looks from the riding school that used to hack past the fields as their horses were petrified of the donkeys and often had to dismount to get past :rolleyes:. With regards to the rubber matting, again I agree that you dont need it at all as it is simply personal preference if you have it or not. Great if you can afford it as it will cut down the time you spend mucking out. As for strip grazing - again it depends on the type or grass and soil you have. I wouldnt split a 3 acre field unless it got particularly rich. I prefer to let horses have room to roam as much as possible. You have 2 field so should be able to rotate nicely without splitting them. Good luck with it all - I'm envious as I'm back in livery and hate not being able to manage things myself ;)

[AengusOg]

If you intend using electric fencing then keep it tight, that is erect a proper fence with it so that it does not sag. Put good posts in, particularly at the ends and maintain it in good order.

I use electric rope as there is less wind resistance with it, and it does not look untidy the way tape does.

Keep a good charge in it too, as horses quickly detect any weaknesses and may escape (usually when you least need it).

Slack, flapping, zig-zagging electric fences look awful and, considering they are made up of nylon and wire, are very dangerous for horses.

[xloopylozzax]

i cant really help with your other questions (and they have been answered pretty well anyway so i wont try!)
why not get a sheep for a companion?
a lot of people round where i keep my horses have a couple of sheep- they help with weed problems (they eat everything) and are companions that aren't scary (i dont think anyway).
worth a try maybe...

[Oliver Twist 5]

6)
Luckily the 2 cobs are departing my field in March (Whooohooo) but i should have my own horse before then. Is there anything other than worms my horse could contract from them and would they need worming along with my horse (with the owners permission of course) even if seperated by fencing? Also could the grass be too worm infested for grazing or would it be ok with the obvious addittion of haylege to supplement?

Try getting a worm count done,10 quid from mole valley or you can get it online,then you get a poo sample and send it off and they tell you if you need to worm and stuff, my horse is on the line for worming and not worming so i have wormed him once and will get another one done next year and try and avoid worming hi.(if there are lots of other horses you probably should worm untill they are gone and the field is clear)

[Oliver Twist 5]

ha me again, just to say that i have had my horse for 10 weeks and i am i first time owner and we got loads of diferent advice some of it was completely oposite to other bits but the great thing is you dont have act on it you can listen and then think naa wont do that and do it your own way. Im 15 and have learnt by doing i had hardly and knowledge but now im hunting weekly and my horse isnt dead(major plus) and the great thing about having your horse at home is you can go and feed it in your dressing gown before school. woooo
alsogreat articles in free magasines so pick them up where ever you go, if you can cope with all the ads you can get some gems. www.dptc.org.uk
this is a wesite for the sale or loan of dartmoor ponies for riding or companions. They prefer it to be on loan so they are sure the ponies are safe and it would be great if you didnt get on with the pony or it was to expensive to keep because you could just send it back. Also an article about nine steps to better pasture 1)Harrow your paddocks (only in hot dry weather or cold dry weather.) 2)Droppings free so pick it up! 1 horse to 1.5 acre 3)Do not over graze the paddocks, they eat the poor grass near the droppings and can pick up parasite eggs. 4) Rest your paddocks as much as possible. also graze with cattle and sheep,they eat the rubbish stuff and help with worms 5) Worm befor moving fields. 6) Keep horses that are grazing together on the same worming cycle. 7) Sub divide your paddocks and rotate regularly. 8) Dont let droppings build up around water sources and shelters. ((abriviated)) Most importantly HAVE FUN:)

[sotanimals]

:eek:Just wondered if anyone could give me some advice before I decide to own my own horse. I have done the horse owners course but it doesn't answer my specific questions.

1)
I have x2 3 acre fields. Two cobs have grazed them and have made the top one very horse sick as droppings have never been removed and they are permanantly out. (Not my horses by the way)
The bottom 3 acre field is notas bad so I was just going to pick the few droppings up,check for poisonous plants and safety etcand then have a walkway from this field to my stable in the field with the other 2 horses. (SEPERATED BY ELECTRIC FENCING THOUGH) ANY COMMENTS ON WHETHER THIS SEEMS A GOOD IDEA IN THE SHORT TERM??

2)
My local farmer plans to harrow the top field and seed with meadow seed? ANYONE any advise on this,whether there is a better option to ensure the grass is not too rich and also when to let horses return to grazing on it?

3)
For STRIP GRAZING for a 15.2hh and a 9hh donkey (ah bless) what would you reccommend the 3 acre fields be split in to and how often to rotate??

4)
Is a donkey a good companion and less trouble than another horse??

5)
Is rubber matting neccessary for stable walls??

6)
Luckily the 2 cobs are departing my field in March (Whooohooo) but i should have my own horse before then. Is there anything other than worms my horse could contract from them and would they need worming along with my horse (with the owners permission of course) even if seperated by fencing? Also could the grass be too worm infested for grazing or would it be ok with the obvious addittion of haylege to supplement?

Many thanks any help is much appreciated

trowaymare ok, well i know the Donkey thing i think. We own ten horses, and one mine Donkey. they all get along fine, though i think that it'd be best, to introduse them slowly. well, i got to find out how to post my own thing about my mare. um how do you do that?

[Wally]

My old horse became homicidal at the merest glance of a donkey. :D nothing in this world would ever convince him.

[sotanimals]

My old horse became homicidal at the merest glance of a donkey. :D nothing in this world would ever convince him.nice icon

[Trewsers]

You don't need rubber matting - when I move ours into their new stables (they've just got field shelters with doors on at the mo) I won't be using them at all. Just plenty of shavings!
Some horses are scared of donkeys! I would look for another horse / pony companion - but then again that could just be me and I could be wrong! Donkeys have different requirements to horses - so they wouldn't be able to live out as much - but BigEars on here will be able to fill you in on all that as she's the expert!