Fencing!

[Spirit Filly]

My riding instructor, who is abusive towards the precious equine species also has got a problem with her fences.
They are wire fences and parts of it in the paddock the horses are in at the moment and there wire broken of the fence on the ground.
After consulting the instructor, she said "I'll fix it one day,"
And we stared at her in disbeleif!
How stupid would you have to be? Half of the horses in the paddock aren't even hers and she's treating them without respect.

[Wally]

What exactly is your worry?
It it that the horse could get caught in it?

We have nothing but wire fences, we have no choice, sheep have to be kept out and sheep net is the only answer.

5 strand wingle strand is a standard here, I don't like it because they can get a foot cought in the bottom wire.

If the bottom strands are, in fact, broken it is safer than having the bottom strands intact. It is far more difficult for them to get a shoe hooked on the bottom strands if they are floppy than if they are tight.

If you have wire fencing I'd be happier if the first few strands were missing as it makes this problem less. ( in an ideal world the first wire should be at least a foot from the ground) If you have to keep sheep out it is a problem you just have to live with!

We HAVE to keep all our fences tight to keep sheep out, which means occasionally we get a horse caught in the fence by his shoe. Post and rail would be wonderfull, but they blow falt in the first wnter gale and there would be nothing left for the horses as the hill sheep would eat the lot.

Please don't keep refering to your instructor in such nasty terms. Until you have a full understanding of a horse be a little more careful.

[ros]

Of course, if it were barbed wire that would put a different slant on things, would it not? (Yes, I know you shouldn't use barbed wire for the lower strands but nevertheless you often see it.) Let's hope it isn't in this case.

[Wally]

Now you're talking! Barbed wire should be made a criminal offence!!:(

[KarlR]

Oddly enough I actually had a discussion about barbed versus normal wire with our (soon to be ex) livery yard owners husband today and he feels strongly that barbed wire is okay, but that normal wire isn't.

His argument is that horses are caused more injuries by straight wire because they show it little respect.

Personally, I'd go for post and rail any day (and am doing at the new property), but it's an interesting viewpoint anyway.

[Wally]

The only thing barbed wire does is injure humans as well as animals.

Cows have no respect for wire barbed or otherwise, I have had to rescue cattle from barbed wire fences with horrendous injuries.

Horses too have no respect for it, I have never seen a horse put off leaning on a fence just because it has barbed wire on it.

Electric is the only thing they truly keep away from.

When we moved into our property some years back all the fences had barbed wire on them. It has taken me over 10 years to get rid of the stuff. We were working sheep near the last bit of barbed wire when my man caught his eye on the fence and I had to take him to the Docs. to get him stitched up. He so easily could have lost an eye.

I have never had to treat a horse, who had been caught up in plain wire, for cuts or broken skin. Many's the time I have seen horses injured through barbed wire. Cattle too.

[larri]

The whole yard I rent is barbed wire - I hate the stuff with a vengeance - especially as Safi has the awful habit of jumping between the paddocks. My last mare cut her face from her nose to her eyes once - she paid no attention to the fact it was spiky :eek:
And as for electric - brilliant stuff - I just can't run it around 10 acres split into 4!

In reply to Spirit Filly - I would worry if it was coiled on the ground as the horses could get tangled - can you not pull it out of the way?

[LouiseS]

I don't like barbed wire either but saying that I helped and occasionally worked at a stable for many many years where all the fences were barbed wire and there was only one injury in about 25 years that I can remember (wouldn't risk it if I had any prone to jumping out though) - it must be taut though and the same goes for plain wire - that is pretty good at causing injuries if loose and gets tangled round a leg or something.

In dividing my land from my neighbours I currently have electric tape but am in the process of putting in something called Tornado wire which is high tensile stock wire specially designed for horses with very small squares at the bottom so no chances of even tiny hooves getting caught. I intend to put a rail along the top. I am very impressed with it - it is better than plain wire especially as my neighbour has an escapee Dartmoor pony - and it is cheaper than post and rails - I would like them but just too expensive!

I would caution against putting a low strand of wire in (plain or otherwise) - they had this where I kept my horses before I bought my own land. Horses can get caught especially by the shoe if they are pawing types but it also causeds other problems. My old dog had a serious injury with it. He was chasing a rabbit at dusk and ran straight in to a low strand with his mouth open (the half light made it extra hard to see I guess) - he was a big dog (Flatcoated Retriever) and the combined weight and speed meant he wrenched two of his back teeth out with a bit of the jaw attached. He was 9 months at the time and only died this time last year so he survived it but it was a very nasty injury and I think could have been worse.


Louise

[Elfin]

At the stables I ride at, they use electric fencing in all their paddocks, it is so much more versatlie than wire.

[H & Bailey]

hi I 've got a mix of fencing,my pony was a gypsy type and has no respect whatsoever on any type!I also have ashetland who can squeeze under or through the smallest gap!He(gypsy pony) is usually stood with a leg over or in the net type(pig mesh).Post and rail he just tries to put his head through and pushes(the little one goes under so have to board it up),the only thing that he hasnt tried to destroy is pallet fencing .A couple of posts with pallet hooked over.But I dont have this as a boundry fence just round the feed and hay sheds keeps dogs and kids in and ponies out!
Id love electric but knowing my luck someone would pinch the stuff as I have already had 20 posts pinched!Never mind

[KarlR]

Having just said that we're going for P&R, we've just got the price and it's a bit higher than our budget. We've been quoted £2,000 for a field divider alone! As a result we're investigating electric. Does anyone have experience of using it?

Two main areas of use:

1. We have barbed wire around the outside and would be keen to keep them away from it. (We will repair it as best we can so it isn't loose anyway).

2. We want to partition the field - 6/7 acres is a bit much for 2 horses!

Any advice at all would be appreciated! We've had mixed opinions in the past varying from "it just gets stolen and horses with rugs walk through it" to "it's really good and the horses respect it".

If you can also say what supplier you used it'd really help and what sort of wire/tape/posts/... etc.

I probably need to order something quickly (like tomorrow) so a fast response would be helpful too! Thanks again! :)

[Anna.C]

I've just had to invest in a whole load of electric fencing having moved my horses on to my own land and its really working well - I can't remember the make of the power supply, I'll have a look when I get home this afternoon.

I bought the whole lot from my local farm supplier - in my case Mole Valley Farmers (I expect there's an equivalent anywhere in the country). I bought the cheapo white plastic posts but invested in some thicker tape - an inch wide so its nice and obvious. I've got a wire running from the house so I don't have to worry about changing batteries (just power-cuts! ;) ) and it really seems to be doing the job. Having said that I'm using it to split a 7 acre field which is pretty secure around the perimeter - I'm not sure I'd want to rely on it as the only fencing.

Incidently the perimeter is hedged with wire fencing round the inside of the hedge and the top strand is taut barbed wire. I'm planning on replacing it with tape when I have the time.

Tips from my other half (who is a whizz with electricity) on making sure your electric fencing packs a punch:

Only have your tape held by the plastic holders.
Where you need to secure a plastic post to fencing etc. use binder twine to attach your post to the fence at a different level to where the tape is attached to the plastic post.
Clear away any branches or foliage touching your tape - these will reduce charge.

[LouiseS]

Hi

Regarding electric fencing we used tape with semi permanent wooden posts - just like ordinary posts but a bit thinner - this makes a fence that is much more secure than using plastic posts and is ideal if you want a more permanent fence - much tougher than plastic push in posts which I feel should only be used for strip grazing. My two do respect the electric fence though - once shocked means very wary.

If you use semi permanent wooden posts they can be put in by hand (using a post rammer) providing you do it in the winter when the gorund is soft (and you are reasonably strong and energetic and preferably male I think). You screw the connectors to the posts. I use two rows of tape and have had no problems with it loosing tautness - and no escapes.

If you want a safe permanent fence but can't afford Post and Rail do look at Tornado wire (no, I don't work for the company) - it is good.

Louise

Louise

[Fifteenbobber]

don't forget to check the electric tape daily to make sure it is working.:D

From your local farm store you can also buy a natty little gadget for testing how much of a 'punch' your electric fence gives out.:)

Saves having to touch it every day:eek: :eek:

[ros]

We've got electric round all the horse fields. We bought the best mains fencer we could afford, and it's got a lovely display unit which tells you exactly how much power is getting through, so you know if it's shorting out somewhere without having to test the whole thing. Wouldn't be without it.

Nevertheless I usually check it every day when we walk the dogs by getting Mark to climb over it - he's hopeless and ALWAYS gets caught out, so I know how well it's working by the volume when he squeaks!

[KarlR]

Thanks everybody. That's really useful and sounds pretty good. No negative comments at all! :)

We'll be running it from a 12V wet (car) battery - no chance of mains going that far, but I don't mind buying 2 and swapping them out every week or two for a recharge.

The two systems that I've seen are Fieldguard and Rutland (although lots of different distributors) but I don't know if one is better than the other. Trying to get either to answer the phone today was fruitless, but I'll try again tomorrow!

Ros - I think that I'll go for a tester. The human tester method could end my marriage very quickly!! ;)

Louise - I can fit the fairly strong and male bit, but I'm not sure about the energetic! :)

I do like the idea of wood rather than plastic posts (or perhaps wood by the barbed wire edge and plastic across the middle?) . The plastic ones do seem very flimsy and I can see them needing to be refitted regularly after strong winds.

Thanks again for all the advice everyone. That's very helpful.

[Wally]

We have WIND, I mean strong weather, sometimes you cannot stand in it. The plastic fence posts are fine, they don't blow down. Tape will sometimes pull loose, we use rope fencing.

As to testing the fence, you have to act all useless and cross.....then when your hubby comes home say sulkily "I cannot get the so and so fencing to work" then sit back and watch him wander down to the fence, scratch his head and so trustingly take hold of the fence. Then sit back and lip read perfectly his intentions when he gets back within striking range!:D :D :D

An inquisitive sheepdog is another good test of fencing!;)

[KarlR]

Hmmm. My German Shepherd isn't a very fast learner so perhaps I could use him as a cheap tester? ;)

Maybe not. :(