Want Molly to go on the bit

[Kylie Chamberlain]

I've been thinking lately, that it would be nice to get Molly on the bit, but I'm really not sure how to go about it.
Molly carries her head pretty high, which I have read is very typical of ex-racehorses, which she is.
Does anyone have any advice on how I should get started, I would be incredibly grateful!:)

[Kylie Chamberlain]

.,.

[lamprellsarah]

well a good even rein contact essential but this is not how the main way you are meant to bring your horse, down on the bit you have to use a constant leg pressure, (as you horses belly swing toward you leg you give a squeeze!!!)
you have to have a good seat and be able to urge you horse on with your body as well as your legs.
the right bit for your horse is also a must some horse won't come down due to them not likeing the feel, or pain!!
once your horse relaxes at the poll you have to reward him but easing the contact a little!!
i find lunging with side reins help!!

i am not an expert but i hope this helps, don't get caught up in your horse coming down you want him to be able to work properly from behind first, and before you know it your horse may start to except the contact!!! :)

[Piaffe]

Lots of perseverance and help is needed when reschooling ex-racehorses. Start by lots of short lunging sessions - use side reins, as Lamprell said- these help the horse to start to accept the bit. You need to bear in mind that when racehorses feel the bit they go faster, as they have been trained to do!!!

Schooling sessions using draw reins for short periods of time can help too - also when out hacking. A great deal of schooling can be done out hacking - its easier for the horse in some respects because he's working in a straight line, not a small circle.

Always remember to ride your horse into your hands, never force him to accept the bit. Try to find a bit which he can play with - this encourages salivation which in turn helps with acceptance of the bit.

Good luck! and hope this helps a bit!!

[Kylie Chamberlain]

Thanks!
Now can you tell me how much Side reins cost, coz I suppose I'd better go out and buy some A.S.A.P.

[Hannibo]

Dont forget-It will take time! You'll be asking your mare 2 use muscles she never has b4!! Dont push too hard, take things slowly!! Good luck and have fun!!! :D

[cvb]

the important thing about a horse being on the bit is that all the basics have to be there first. They have to be forward (leg into hand), straight, and active. Most of the schooling exercises actually focus on achieving this, then the rest just sort of falls into place.

One really useful thing, if you haven't already got an idea of what yo are looking for, is to go and have a ride on a schoolmaster. You need to know what you are looking for. At first you will only get really small flashes of 'on the bit'ness. Then if you have the courage of your convictions and don't try and take short cuts, the horse will gradually become more consistent.

They just don't have the muscles to stay on the bit all the time to start off with.

Its also worth bearing in mind that we talk about being on the bit as if it is all about the mouth. But 'being on the bit' is about the whole of the horse. So using side reins or draw reins is only any use if they are doing more than just tying the horse's head and neck into place.

[Speedy]

The most important thing is that she is going forwards. When lunging, don't put the side reins on straight away (or draw reins when riding, for that matter) - get her moving forwards first - check that she is tracking up (hind feet stepping over/into the imprint of the fore foot). Put the side reins on very loosely and keep driving her forwards - you want her to work long and low to start with so that she is using her back correctly - if you shorten the side reins and force her to round, she will just use the wrong muscles and this is pointless. Work her for short periods at a time so that the muscles can develop - if you overwork her, the muscles will tire and she will resort to using the wrong muscles to compensate. When she is walking forward, long and low, then you can introduce trotting - aiming for the same long and low outline. Only when she has developed the correct muscles, should you ask her to bring it all together. Keep your legs on and drive her forwards, keep a steady contact on the reins and very gently half halt and play with the reins - you must give to her the moment she makes a move in the right direction (I've heard it said that to a horse there are four moments in a second!!). As you ride her forwards, try to lighten your seat as well as this helps them to lift their back (they need to lift their back so that they can lengthen their topline) but keep looking up (if you look down at her she may drop onto her forehand).

Finally (cos this is way too long!) be patient as you're changing her physical way of carrying herself as well as her mental reaction to the bit and leg aids. Good luck

[lamprellsarah]

they cost about £10, the elasicated one are queite nice!!!
there are some fab advice on here, told you you would get better advice than mine :) :D

[charlie]

DRAW REINS! my pet hate!!! Especially for this purpose---exracehorse-not going to have correct muscles to be working on the bit yet anyway, so certainly dont use draw reins. They (especially used incorrectly) dont really get the horse to accept the bit in the conventional sense. (head goes up, so draw reins pull it down) Therefore, the hind legs trail, and all people are bothered about is where the head is. You have to work to acheive this, i believe, not just pull their heads in. At a later stage, lots of horses also drop behind the bridle etc, as a result of use. Before aything like this, the muscles need to be built up to be able to "carry herself" with a rider on.
Lunging in sidereins is an option (not tight sidereins though) and remember lunging is hard work. All you should be expecting of your horse at this point is basically to be controllable, forward going and beginning to learn to flex a bit. Lots of transitions, circles, but not all in one go. If possible, it would probably be best at first to hack out a lot, and introduce these things out hacking. You are looking to acheive an "elastic" contact, with the horse responsive in the mouth, working well behind, and creating a picture of harmony.
Dont work for too long, there is only so long a horse can remain concentrated, keep sessions short and sweet (take a look in this month's horse and rider mag, got an interesting article about memory slots!)
Good luck!

[Maci]

Before you go and buy them, try and see if you can establish her on the bit, the natural way. I ride an ex-racehorse too, that has a pretty high head carriage, but after a few seconds of squeezing alternativly on the reins with my fingers, his head goes down. He like's to bring it back up, but start the process all over again. Only if this doesn't work, then I'd go for side reins/draw reins.

Maci :)

[Kylie Chamberlain]

I suppose I could try that Macy.
But Molly is very dancy and fidgety, I trhink if i squeesed she'd throw her head up, but i'll give it a go.
Thanks for your help everyone, I now know alot more than I oncce did!
Proves something I've been saying alot lately, Newrider rules!

[lamprellsarah]

what about trying it just for a second when you go down a transition this way she will concentrating and she may not fidget so much!