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newforest

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Mar 15, 2008
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The story-cob in January was seriously ill. Spent 2 weeks in hospital, and almost 3 months on box rest. She also run up a nice bill, most of which was paid for by insurance.
The vet wanted her worming every ten weeks from 5weeks ago, so not due for another 5 weeks.
Yard policy as from January is every twelve.
We are moving fields tomorrow, so in order to move with them she has to be wormed. That is ok that has actually always been the yard rules, worm before moving fields. The only difference is i have vet on one side who wants every ten i assume because she is a high risk. Yard wants every twelve.
Now i can do this-but my concern is the 4th stage of encysted redworm and i guess this is why vet wants every ten.

The vet in question is not working today. I am having to bring in worm and leave in for 24hours and move. Or bring in and wait until i can get hold of the vet and see how much increased risk this is by moving her to every twelve.
We all know egg counts don't show up encysted so i was going to do blood tests for this.

Please select your cookie from the choice of chocolate chip or plain.
 
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I've had both types of cookie thanks! And I am NO help at all - as I just stick with the vets worming policy and do egg counts (very simple as I am at home with ours). Bumping your thread and hope you get some good answers! (These cookies are good btw!)lol
 
I love cookies, i have discovered toblerone ones.

She will have to be wormed with the rest as i can't stable her for 5 weeks. I do know this is how you build up resistance with some types.
 
My concern is after spending hours and thousands getting her healthy again, that those two weeks could make the difference between staying healthy or not.
If i go against my vet and she gets sick again, the insurance won't likely pay out.
I felt the programme that vet offered was good as it tailored it to your horse, but not if you are on a yard.

The other way is to still worm every ten and stable for 14 days while waiting for field change.
 
have a word with your vet - it may not be as big a deal as you think, they may split the D in which case you only have to stable for a week -prob get to every 12 as time goes, a lot depends on wormer as well - if the wormer is an 8 -10 then its no good going to 12, as you say need to change the wormers as well to avoid resistance,the only one safely at 12 as far as I know is the Equest/pramox program.........
 
Why do your yard worm then move? I was told not to do this as it helps to develop resistance? In which case it would probably be best to speak to your vet first just for some reassurance even if she stays in until you can get hold of them?
 
Why do your yard worm then move? I was told not to do this as it helps to develop resistance? In which case it would probably be best to speak to your vet first just for some reassurance even if she stays in until you can get hold of them?

Because they always have. It is the equest and pramnx programme.

Wormed her tonight, again, only did her 5 weeks ago as was just starting vet scheme. All horses in overnight and out tomorrow.
I will be egg counting and doing blood.
 
Basically the insurance and vet are there to keep the horse alive so I'd go with them. I don't see how a couple of a weeks could make a difference to the yard, but I'm quite blinkered by my own opinions sometimes so don't know the yard's point of view.
 
The rules are you worm to move fields, everyone done together with same product. All kept in overnight.
That method didn't stop her getting sick so she needs doing more often, more so now been ill.
The next time she needs egg and bloods anyway as November.
 
Your horse comes first, I had this trouble at the last yard, no proper worming rota in place, i'd opted for worm count, then worm, with my youngster.. you do what's right for you, history has proved their system clearly has holes, or else your horse wouldn't have got ill in the first place..
 
Your horse has to come first. It can be very difficult in these situations when you are on a yard. I suggest you speak to the yard owner explaining the situation and ask if allowances can be made for your circumstances. If they are unobliging, look for another yard. It may be less convenient or more expensive but you need to look at the long term. Another year and your cob will be much easier to manage with regard to the worms. I think it is essential to do what the vet says for cob's (Tilly?) long term health. You have worked hard so far and spent a lot of money no doubt.

I have all mine on intelligent worming. None of them are wormed at the same time because they each have different requirements even though they graze the same land. Cherie hardly ever has worms, Evie is higher and Summer wasn't wormed at all previous to me owning her so she is still fairly high.

White chocolate chip cookies for me
 
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It you help if there were not interfering busy bodies who have suddenly became trained in the matter.
No one else does counts, no one else does bloods. So how do we know that that what is being done is working. It clearly didn't.
 
That didn't make sense Tina your right.

When i spoke to the staff i could move fields, that was ok because she was well in the safe zone and is in fact being wormed more than anyone else. She didn't need worming.
A livery interfered with this because they suddenly changed their minds and i have to fit in with them, because i am unsafe by not worming when they do.
I can see the point of everyone doing the same thing at the same time. But no one else knows apart from that if it actually works or not. Worming when you do not need to creates resistance. Brilliant-because she has just been wormed again after only 5 weeks.

Waiting for vet to call, because at the end of the day between us we have got her where she is now. It would just be a shame to stable her for two week every ten waiting to move fields.

Now i am eating the cookies!:wink:
 
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Hope you get it sorted NF that sounds really frustrating, especially as you are doing the right thing and the others don't seem to have a clue.

When I went on IW I thought mine would all have the same type of worms and the same level. Not so at all, they are each very different and need different treatments accordingly even though they all graze together on the same land.

Perhaps you can persuade YO to change her/his view. IW and a few other companies will set up worming programmes for whole yards. Its very easy and straight forward and works out about £10 per horse per month including all the paperwork, egg counts and wormers.
 
are they using the equest/pramox program for this years rotation or do they use it all the time! I would worry if they haven't changed it for years - they may be doing no good at all.
 
This is why there is so much resistance to the wormers building up because people just carry on with the same routine.

Much better education is needed regarding worm counting and only worming when needed AND more importantly with the right product for the job and the correct amount of wormer.

I feel sorry for you, in a catch 22 situation really but I would go with the Vets opinion.
 
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