Advice needed on pelham bits

P

posh ponies

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Jul 13, 2007
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Ive been told by my instructor to get a pelham bit for my ex race horse just for use when hacking out, as when i canter him he holds the bit and tanks off!
He normally has a french link loose ring snaffle, so what pelham do i buy? are the mullen mouth pelhams better than the jointed ones? and how loose/tight do i fit the chain ? and are there covers for these?
Thanks :)
 
If the horse tanks with his head up in the air, a pelham might well help as it is mainly poll pressure which will bring the head down. If he does what my boy does and stick his head down and tank, then it wont help as it will just keep it down. The only way it might help then is in preventing the tank to start with as he might respect it as a stronger bit, but it wont help if he goes.

A mullen mouth pelham is milder than a jointed pelham, also a jointed pelham undermines the action of the bit as the movement prevents the curb chain coming into effect. Having said that I have known horses who prefer the jointed one so I wouldnt rule it out.

If using a pelham would recommend 2 reins not roundings unless doing XC where they might be a handful. using roundings means you are using the curb on them all the time which is unfair. I tend to knot the curb rein, just leave it on the neck and just use the snaffle rein unless problems arise. Which they generally dont as horsie def knows the turbo brakes rein is there!

If horsie sticks head in the air and tanks then you might be better with what my chap has which is a true running gag (NOT a dutch/bubble/3 ring gag, theyre not true gags, proper gags lift the head, dutch gags are poll pressure and lower it). The running gag has 2 reins and the gag rein has a cheek strap that goes down through slots in the top and bottom of a snaffle bit. The other rein is attached as normal as a snaffle. So the pressure when applied with the gag rein is mainly on the bit rings but also some on the poll but very much backward pressure more than downward. This would help more.

You can get covers for the curb chains, obviously they will lessen the effect somewhat!

good luck!
 
This is better worded than I could do, its from equinesite.com so is their work!
Now, let’s review general fitting of the curb chain. The angle of the shanks to the corners of the mouth should be 45 degrees when the reins are pulled. Only this angle is the most healthy and productive – any more and the bit does not act properly without excessive pulling of the rider’s hands, and any less and the bit is too strong. A properly adjusted curb bit and an experienced rider’s aids are a delicate tool of training – a improperly adjusted curb in inexperienced hands is a torture device for the horse.

Curb Hooks

I could not leave out the subject of the curb hooks. So many people do not pay any attention to them whatsoever. On the upper shanks of every curb bit there are two hooks - one on each side. They should face forward – that is with the opening of the hook facing in the direction the horse is facing. Backward hooks can get hooked on the snaffle bit ring and if rider does not notice, by applying the curb rein, he/she will be pulling on the snaffle ring instead of the curb. The hooks’ openings should be just enough wide for the chain to be hooked. Not too narrow and not too wide - just enough. The lower part of the hook should reach the middle of the diameter of the mouthpiece. If the hooks are longer, the chain attached to them will be touching the lower lip and rub, causing a sore on it. As I said, everything should be fit. There are no trifles in dressage. A little pinch will lead to resistance in horse’s behavior. And a rider unaware of that will force the horse to perform without knowing what causes resistance putting the blame on the horse’s stubbornness when in fact it is totally rider’s fault.

Curb Chains

The curb chain should not be too long – only approximately 1.5 times longer than the mouthpiece. Some riders, if the chain is too long, twist the leftovers around the curb. This creates a knot that develops a sore on the horse’s lip, which leads to disobedience caused by mouth pain. Do not jam one end of the chain inside the hook with pliers – if you do, you can only adjust the chain on one side, leaving all of the extra chain dangling (and distracting the horse) on the other side. The curb chain should be untwisted all the way to the right. Make sure it lies flat against the horse’s chin. On most horses, use a chain guard or something soft to protect their jaw. Many horses are very sensitive to curb chain pressure and will resist or fling their heads – in many cases this can be solved by reducing the pain caused by the curb bit. Decrease the pressure and use a soft pad on the chain making it less severe. Using a rubber guard on the chain helps - or simply wrap it in duct tape or something similar.

The chain is adjusted correctly if you could place finger under it and, as we have already discussed, when the shanks of the curb are at an angle of 45 degrees to the line of the horse’s mouth when the reins are pulled. The shorter the chain is adjusted the stronger it is, so for the horses with dull mouth, it should be shorter.
 
My last horse had a habit of tanking off with me, galloping off across the cross country field, taking off on a hack, galloping into jumps and then going off in all directions - it was fun really it was :D

A few month of re-schooling in a Waterford Hanging Cheek snaffle and he was back in a plain jointed snaffle for hacking and jumping. :D
 
Thanks again for the info.
A lady on my yard has told me that due to my horse taking hold of the bit the french link pelham is the best option :confused:
Ive looked these up but i`m a bit puzzled as to why the snaffle rings are not fixed to the bit. does anyone know why :confused:
The lady told me they are better because they do not pinch?
On the other hand my instructor as told me to get a vulcanite :confused:
Now i`m getting really confused as to what to buy :eek:
 
not sure about the vulcanite....but....the snaffle is not attached to the mouthpiece probably because its a loose ring one......loose rings can help if the horse leans on the lean or grabs on to it as they are more mobile as they are not fixed to the mouthpiece.......but if your horse taking hold of the bit and tanking off with you.....i would suggest a waterford....they are very good for horse's who lean on the bit or take hold of the bit, as they are floppy in every direction so there is nothing to take hold of! When you pull back, it then goes solid, but the horse still cannot grab onto it as there is no part of it that is fixed.

The only thing with a waterford you have to be quite sypthathetic with your hands, e.g. no harsh or sharp pulling on her mouth, and you shouldn't saw on their mouth, e.g. when asking them to come down on to the bit as this can make a quite severe bit. If you do decide to go for a waterford, they should be worn 1/4"-1/2" longer than your normal size of bit, as they should curl around the horse's lips, with an exeception of the waterford pelham which should be worn the usual size your horse is:)

641aae05-015e-4d43-b639-ce76e51f6d0.jpg
 
Just to add my bit to the discussion on which mouthpiece to use. For the curb action of the pelham to be effective then the mouthpiece should be unjointed ie straight bar, mullen or ported. If the mouthpiece has joints (ie single joint, french link or waterford) then the mouthpiece will change shape when pressure is applied & so the curb won't come into play.

I'd definately recommend two reins, it's not difficult once you get the knack of it & it does mean you only use the curb when you need it.
 
Thank you carthorse,
if i get a french link then does that mean i won`t need to use the curb chain :confused: and can pelhams be used without the curb chain at all :confused:
Ive also just seen on the web that if using a rugby pelham you have to use a bradoon :confused:
Im just used to loose ring snaffles so this is all a bit too much for me :eek:
Ineed more info please on the french link ones but i`m puzzled about what headpiece to use :confused:
Thanks everyone :)
 
Thanks so much s f s you`ve made things so much easier ;)
Are these bits easy to get hold of as my local tack shop does`nt stock much of a range.
Thanks again :):)
 
Whereabouts are you?
Might be easier to order online - most of the big retailers would have them.


Leather curb:
Leather-Curb-Chain-1606.jpg



Elastic curb:
656_elastic_curb_chain.JPG



Much 'safer' in that you can't really cause any damage with these! I suggest you ask someone on your yard - who you have seen using a pelham - to show you just how tight it should be. Very hard to describe a feeling in words!


There is a link to the shop just below the picture. Just over £20 which is average price.
 
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If you're going to use a french link mouthpiece then I don't think there's a lot of point getting a pelham, you may as well get a three ring as that will give you poll pressure but no curb action. That may be enough for your horse, I know several ex-racers that hack very nicely in these.

A rugby pelham is designed to give the appearance of a weymouth & bridoon, ie to look like a double bridle, but without the horse having the extra metal in his mouth. You certainly wouldn't use a bridoon with a rugby pelham because the bridoon is the snaffle bit in a double (the weymouth is the curb). Rugby pelhams are popular in the show ring but they still lack the finesse of a correctly used double.

Unless you go for a rugby pelham your normal bridle headpiece will be fine, if you get a rugby one then you'll need a sliphead too. By the way I assume you've been told that you should only use a cavesson noseband with a pelham?

I'm not keen on elastic curb "chains" because they can stretch & let the bit rotate too far so the rider gets a lot of leverage on the mouth. Leather ones & curb covers will soften the action to a degree but some horses seem to prefer the plain chain, it's just trial & error to see what suits.

ETA I think you ay be best going back to your instructor & discussing this in more length. SOme things are far easier shown than described!
 
Thats great, one more thing though, he`s currently in a 5.5" loose ring but he does have rubber bit guards aswell, so do i buy a 5.5" or 5 1/4 ?
 
By the way I assume you've been told that you should only use a cavesson noseband with a pelham?
Click to expand...

Not absolutely true, if both are correctly fitted then you can use a flash/grackle with a pelham, as the curb chain should come into action higher than the strap of the flash lies. Equally, a crank is fine. But if you're going by the book, then yes the two should not be mixed.


If your instructor has said to use a pelham, then I'd go with her advice- she has seen your horse and what it does to evade. Gags have a completely opposite action, by lifting the head rather than lowering it as the curb action of the pelham does. She must have said to opt for that for a reason.
 
But then a three ring doesn't have a true gag action, it's a rather misnamed bit ;). Still lets not get into an argument about that one (& I personally hate the damn things so I don't want to be defending them!) as it won't help PP. I just thought it may be an option worth considering & discussing with her RI.
 
I hate them too - well more the '4 ring' ones that everyone seems to grab for as a first option of a stronger bit without thinking of how it acts. They do have a gag action in that they lift in the mouth, which would lift the head, but at the same time the leverage puts on extra tongue/poll pressure so making them a very confusing bit in all and not raelly a gag action, as you rightly say.
 
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