idiots guide to buying a horsebox - needed!

Star_Piper

Member
Mar 6, 2006
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Glasgow
Clava's thread reminded me, but I didn't want to hi-jack her thread, so started my own.
I'm hoping in the not-too-distant-future (next year sometime) to buy a horsebox. BUT I'm clueless about what I should be looking for. I know nothing about different chassis, what's good/bad, good makes/bad makes of horsebox etc etc which are points I hadn't thought about until I'd read Clava's thread.
What advice can you give me on what to look for?

I'm starting my research now, so I can get an idea of what sort of funds I'll need to have saved up to get the new transport. I currently have a 14hh native, so don't need a huge box, and even if I get a second horse at some point it wouldn't be bigger than 16hh max as we're short :) I was wanting as small as possible (allowing for ample room for horse(s) of course). I like the newer Equi-trek type lorries, but can't afford one of those unfortunately. I've no idea how different they are to drive, but I'd be looking for a 3.5 tonne one as opposed to something bigger.
 
I'd thought as far as not too high a mileage for age, check floors don't look like their rotting, and ask the AA man to do the full check before purchase. I hadn't thought of the details like chassis (is that the frame it's built on?) etc :D
 
If you go into the AA website, you can get a rough quote online. I only looked at the car side, but think the same can be done for other vehicles. Think their prices are online too :)
 
The horsebox owner's association will do a check but it ain't cheap! Saved me a fortune in the long run though, I nearly bought a total lemon :o

Quick run down in what to look for in a lorry IMO...van conversion might be different.

Ramp - make sure you can lift it even if the box has it's nose pointing uphill (rear ramp) or is parked on an angle (side ramp). Also check that where the ramp is attached to the rest of the box looks solid & secure.

Floor - needs to be double thickness marine ply or aluminium (but checkerplate isn't ideal). Have a look from above if poss, if not get on your back, roll under the lorry with a torch (bring a tarp!) and have a really good look for any rotten/discoloured bits. The metal crossmembers that support the floor shouldn't look too ropey and shouldn't be too far apart (mine are about a foot or so apart).

Chassis - the main chassis members of the box shouldn't look too ropey (prod with a screwdriver if they look rusty to make sure it's only on the surface) and ought to support the full length of the box.

Cab - if it tilts, ask to see it tilted and have a look at how it looks from beneath. If it doesn't tilt make sure you can access the engine - some lorries have a bonnet, some have access from the living area, some have no access in which case you have to drop the engine out to do any jobs on it :eek:

Tyres - make sure they have plenty of tread & don't look perished.

Engine - start up the box, see whether it smokes badly. They all seem to smoke a bit at first but there's smokin' and there's SMOKIN :eek: If you drive the box, if you can, do a hill start from 2nd & see if there is any sign of the clutch slipping. Jump on the brakes a bit & make sure it stops OK & pulls up in a straight line. See how long the pressure in the air brake system takes to drop off after you've driven it (if applicable). Make sure the speedo works & don't accept any bull**** if it doesn't - it might be a big job to fix and the mileage will be wrong. Check the windscreen for any cracks, I've just had a new screen in mine & it cost £:eek: because the bulkhead had gone rusty so when they took the old screen out, the surround had to be repaired before they could put the new one in.

Most important, see whether you actually feel comfortable driving it! It might cost you quite a bit to keep it going so you've got to love your lorry ;)
 
I've just been to see a lady about another issue and she showed me her old box which really tatty, but she highly recommended having one that carries the horse sideways, or has a side ramp as it is easier to load them and keep them happy when onyour own as there's no going behind to put the strap across. (if that makes sense)
 
Sideways (herringbone) is very useful. I really dont like side ramps. If (heaven forbid) the lorry tipped over, it has a 50/50 chance of landing on the ramp side. Once that happens , no way to remove horses. Not a problem with rear ramp. You alos need a much wider parking space at shows.
 
Sideways (herringbone) is very useful. I really dont like side ramps. If (heaven forbid) the lorry tipped over, it has a 50/50 chance of landing on the ramp side. Once that happens , no way to remove horses. Not a problem with rear ramp. You alos need a much wider parking space at shows.

Good point about the tipping over!:eek:

The one I'm going to look at loads like a trailer and has a side ramp for exiting. Is it a problem traveling one horese when partitioned for two (unbalanced??)...and is an MOT more rigorous than a plating as someone suggested to me?
 
Thanks Iron Maiden, that's a good checklist to work against, and could probably save some wasted visits by on-phone questioning for some points :)

:eek:Hadn't thought of the side-loading problem, if the van tips. Can you get boxes that have both side and rear exits? I did like the look of those boxes too, but safety first...
 
Thanks Iron Maiden, that's a good checklist to work against, and could probably save some wasted visits by on-phone questioning for some points :)

:eek:Hadn't thought of the side-loading problem, if the van tips. Can you get boxes that have both side and rear exits? I did like the look of those boxes too, but safety first...

The lemon lorry had side ramp load & rear ramp off, it was rear facing and looked lovely :) Underneath it was a horror story though - that's how I found out about engine access, they had put a luton on so the cab couldn't tilt but hadn't created access anywhere else. Walk away! :o
 
Would definitely recommend getting any new lorry checked over. We used horsebox & trailer owners organisation. Yeah, it wasn't cheap but money well worth spent as the vehicle was a minefield of problems with a nice paint job!

Good luck - remember though it takes time to get used to driving a lorry. Doesn't matter what it looks like but it MUST be safe
 
its also useful to find out what the lorry did in its former life. Parcel lorries/ bread delivery lorries etc will have had a much easier life than say a tipper truck chassis.
 
I have learnt loads since looking for a box :)

Check the paint work of the whole box - if it has had a very new re-spray without anything else being done this raises alarm bells. A poor re-spray will cost £500 tops, and will cover a multitude of sins to the majority of people. Look at any edges/joins - any bubbling, rough or uneven patches suggests job wasn't done properly (should have been sanded down and treated) and will need doing again. Open doors and check the sills as if a poor job they won't have bothered with doing them :rolleyes:

Chassis - Be wary of ex-delivery/transport vehicles as they cover very high miles in a very short space of time. Some companies shed their stock after 180,000km which in 7.5t wagons is nothing and will be in good nick. All cabs will go round the lower bit of the doors, the door sill, footwells and certainly on Ivecos will go at the front (lift the bonnet - they go rotten around the bonnet hinges and on that support bar, and will also go on the engine mountings and there is two areas at about waist height (don't know what they're called) that if rotten is not a good sign :( ). Milometer should show level numbers (apart from the last 2, possibly 3 numbers), if all the numbers are different heights (and you're not on the cusp of changing .i.e 299,999 to 300,000) then be wary as well :)

Lift the rubber/plastic seals and flooring in the cab and check the metal underneath. Discolouration is fine, but rust (spotting tolerable) is not. MAN cabs seem to be predominantly plastic in the these areas so not normally an issue. Feel under wheel arch, if the surface feels flaky and if tapped feels 'tinny' then have a closer look as this'll mean the floor pan needs attention. If it looks new under there, take up the floor in the cab to check it hasn't just been plated over. Even with wax-oiling you can still see erosion. You can clean the cab inside to within an inch of it's life, but you do struggle to get rid of the orange hue of rust, so if a cab doesn'y have an orange hue on the floor and no rust spotting round the pedals and gear stick then you're probably okay :)

Take any new shiny hubcaps off and check wheels. Poor looking wheels can often lead to poor suspension and chassis. Ask how long the box has sat as sometimes the suspension/brakes etc. just give out on the first time home because they haven't been used. Boxes stored indoors will be less susceptable to this.

As a general rule, if the cab is okay then the rest of the chassis should be okay :)

Box area - if it is a granulistic surface (looks like tarmac) then you'll need to look underneath. This is not an ideal surface as it can mask weakness in the floor and is a b*gger to replace if it wears out. Wood can be worn, but not have any staining in any one patch (which would suggest wee ingress from above). Be wary of untreated brand new wood as in my experience this has meant other short cuts. Checker plater is only okay of it covers the whole of the floor in one/two sheets and is secured round the edge and is not the 12" square tiles. Don't be afraid to lift up the rubber matting (if laid), and if screwed down, ask the owner to lift a corner for you. Have a jump round the box as well to check for soft points and see what the suspension does. Air suspension will act differently to other types of suspension.

With the ramp down look at the lip (bewteen the ramp and box), this should ideally be clean and free from erosion (slight rust colour not a huge issue assuming it's smooth - any bubbles or rough spots and I'd be checking the underneath of the floor and all the metal work).

Ramp should be easy to use, shouldn't creak or feel as if it is 'dry' (feels as is it needs a good dose of WD40). It shouldn't land on you, but needs to go up easily without needing a 7ft wonder to push it in at the top :D Ramp shouldn't be warped, or be seperating at the edges, hinges should be free of erosion.

Internal walls should be solid feeling, any fixtures like wall matting you'd expect to see attached either flush with no metal work or with mushroom caps and washers (smoother finish). Metal work should be smooth and have not sharp edges.

Gut feeling has alot to do with it as well. Sometimes things don't feel quite right and 90% of the time it'll prove you right :)

Oh, and talking to several machanics and motor engineers Ford Cargo/Ivecos are preferable. Newer Dafs are bearable but finding parts for old and new can be awkward, Mercs okay and solidly built, but not great suspension for horses, MAns again are solidly built but not common and renaults apparently are a no-no unless HGV.

Same principles for smaller boxes, but a proportion element comes into it. Boxes that are higher than they are wider (like box vans) can be twitchy when weighted and feel unstable. Boxes like the Sonic are better as have a lower floor so have a lower box and centre of gravity making a more stable ride.

Check your net weights of the boxes as well, especialy on ones with living as sometimes they state you can fit 3 x 17hh horses in (which you probably can), but you'd be over weight in total.

Sorry for rambling :o but I hope it helps!
 
Oh, and talking to several machanics and motor engineers Ford Cargo/Ivecos are preferable

Quite a few folks I know who have boxes & the bloke from the Association of Horsebox & Trailer Owners who did the inspections for me said the opposite :o I now have a '90 Leyland Roadrunner with Cummins engine as recommended by AHBTO man. The guys that maintain it say that parts availability is fine, and pretty much any job on it should be easy except rear brakes so I'm just hoping they don't need any attention anytime soon :rolleyes: Cargo parts have a reputation for being hard to get hold of, a friend of mine who had one reckoned he struggled, although I think David H has one & doesn't seem to have any difficulty.

Bottom line for me is that I really like the lorry. I don't find it stressful or tiring to drive and because it's easy to drive I can give Mrs P a nice, smooth ride in it :) She seems to like her limo & that's the main thing! ;)
 
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