pony training halter

kelbe

New Member
Aug 1, 2008
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Surrey
Has anyone had any experience with one of these training halters? I have read that they are very good to stop your horse from pulling or rearing but have no experience with one.

Can you use them under a bridle? I lead my daughters pony and he still pulls me even with the bridle on, any ideas?

Thanks
 
A small (or large for that matter) pony who doesn't want to lead nicely can be as strong as a tank. If they're not too bad its easy enough to ask them to back straight away and they'll do it, but if they're really strong you might need a a little more help at the start, an adult whos done this thing before, or who's relaxed and patient is perfect to work on this issue.

With the leading, this is the general idea. Its better is an adult does this first.

TRAINING WITH THE ADULT AND PONY

1. Put on a hat and gloves and a coat, and good sturdy boots.

2. Walk pony on loose rein (you're probably not doing this at the minute and I dont blame you!), normal headcollar you use & LONG rope (ie about 12 foot) in enclosed arena or small paddock.

3. Walk like you're going to a 50% off sale at your local tack store You can't wait to get there!!

4. Stop dead, pony still on loose rein.

5. Pony will do 1 of 3 things.

Stop dead with you (unlikely).
Walk over you (likely)
Keep walking past you (also likely)

6. See which ones your pony does.

7. One step after pony has gone too far, or has bumped into you, bump backward on lead rope, and make her step backwards a few steps. This is the hard part at the beginning. This is you saying 'no, you can't walk over me'. But it is what will improve your ponys behaviour. Once you've done this (give yourself a pat on the back), as your pony is standing there, rub her and tell her how wonderful you think she is. Her brain will be doing 90 at this stage

8. Then ask her to walk on again ON A LOOSE REIN. She'll think the first time was just a fluke, and when you stop dead, she'll again try to walk over you, or bump into you. Now you need to say no again. Bump lead rope backwards and ask her to take a few steps backwards. Again, when you've one this and shes there looking at you going 'what is she on today. this isnt normal!' spend a minute and rub and praise her.

9. Repeat every time she bumps or walks past you from now going forward, in yard, on lane, in paddock, everywhere.

10. After five or 10 minutes you should start to see an improvement.

TRAINING WITH THE YOUNG RIDER AND PONY

11. When there is a really good improvement, then its time for the young rider to see how they get on

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thanks. When you say on a loose rein do you mean with his bridle on? You sayto bump him backwards ont the lead rope when he steps too far but I can not even stop him or hold him back he just does not listen what so ever!

He is fine in the sand school and on the roads but when walking to and from the field and also at shows there is no stopping him and obviously i don't want him charging off at a show.
 
thanks. When you say on a loose rein do you mean with his bridle on? - no, just a headcollar. You dont want to pull too much on a horse if theres a bit in its mouth as it'll hurt.

You sayto bump him backwards ont the lead rope when he steps too far but I can not even stop him or hold him back he just does not listen what so ever!
- ok if you can't do this you need to get someone out for an hour to show you. It is hard to do at the start. check out the trainers here: www.intelligenthorsemanship.co.uk there is probably one in your area and they do this kind of work.

He is fine in the sand school and on the roads but when walking to and from the field and also at shows there is no stopping him and obviously i don't want him charging off at a show. - agreed. To get your horse 100% at a scary place like a show/on way to field you need to get him 300% at home. When he's much better at home, I'd do the same work till he's perfect on the way to the fields, and then bring him by yourself to different place (friends yards, shows, whaveter) Do not compete, just lead him around them and get him used to all the commotion. It does take practise, but it should all be very do-able.

GOOD LUCK :)
 
kelbe,

I think you may do well to source a pressure halter for your pony and spend a short time training him to yield to pressure.

You may be best to start in the stable, or at least in a smallish area where he has limited distractions.

Start by asking with the halter, by using a firm, steady push on the rope (with your hand about six inches down the rope under his chin) and, without contacting his neck, use the halter to ask him to back up. You may choose to use the command 'back up', if you wish.

He will resist to begin with but you must maintain the pressure on the rope while watching for the slightest offer of compliance from him..........this may initially be only a slight shift of his bodyweight rather than an actual step back.

Immediately he offers to yield to the pressure, you must give with the hand (stop asking) and reward with the voice.

Next time you ask him, he will react quicker and with more action, ie, he may take a step backward.

Again you must immediately reward him by releasing the pressure and praising him with the voice.

The next step is to ask him to step forward, using the same amount of gentle, firm pressure, this time being ready to release the pressure immediately he steps forward.

If he tries to walk over you, you must be ready to check his forward progress by holding the rope against him and, as he offers to stop, giving the rope, thus rewarding him for taking the check.

Don't be tempted to attempt to hold him with the rope as, if he feels you wrestling with him, he will become too strong for you.

The idea is for you to signal to him what it is you want from him and, as he offers to give, so you should reward him by removing the pressure. If he chooses to stand quietly on the rope, as he will if you're doing it right, he should not feel the halter pressure. Only when you are asking him to do something should he feel any pressure from the halter.

Practice backing him up and moving him around on the rope, rapidly alternating between pressure and release as he complies...........using the halter to help him to understand what is required of him, but remember not to hold him tight when he isn't actually being asked to do anything.

Within a short period of time (usually between five and ten minutes) he should be very keen to be close to you and, as he begins to understand how to avoid feeling the pressure of the halter, will be inclined to watch your movements in an effort to follow you on a slack rope, stopping when you stop, walking on when you do.

When you ask him to walk on, use a touch on the halter to back up your voice command, then leave his head alone as he walks, but be ready to touch the halter to stop him as you stop. Immediately he stops, ask him to walk on again.

Lots of transitions and radical movements back/fore/around will hone his understanding of how the halter works.

Use the halter on him every time you handle him for the next few weeks, and life will become much easier for you both.

If at any time he tries to run over you, because you have him on a long rope, you can step away from him, allow him to run around you until you recover control, then start again.

As long as you don't try to physically restrain him with undue pressure, he will very quickly learn to behave himself.

Good luck :)
 
This is all really great dvice which I shall try. What about when I am leading him in his bridle he takes no notice of my and i can not stop him even with the bit in his mouth.
 
Do you lead him with the bridle when he is tacked up.........going to the school, for example?

If so, you can easily put the training halter on over the bridle and take it off when you get there.

In any event, the more good work you do with the training halter, the more compliant/respectful he'll become, and leading him with the bridle should become easier.

The same principals apply to leading in a bridle, really..........you should be looking to give him lots of subtle cues through the bit, rather than let the exercise develop into a wrestling match which he will always win, to the detriment of his mouth.

:)
 
Thank you AengusOg you have been so helpful.

Yes I do lead him in his bridle when he is tacked up. Thw worst time is when at a show and walking him to the ring he is not listening and I have no control over stopping him ( well very little).

I think I will try this and see how he goes. I am trying clicker training which he seems to be responding to.

Thanks again
 
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