Waterford Bit

graciemoo

graciemoo.co.uk
I am trying my horse in a Waterford bit when jumping, as she is just a little to strong and excitable for my biceps to cope with!! But she has the tendency to canter on the spot (almost) when she turns into the line of the jump...

I have been taught that when schooling, to aid your horse work on the bit, you gently squeeze each hand alternatively, as if you were squeezing a sponge out. However, I have read that 'sawing motion' with a Waterford can be severe.

Am I 'sawing'?

graciemoo x
 
Am I 'sawing'?


In a word? Yes.

The waterford is a bit that horses cannot work into a contact with. It is designed for horses that lean on the bit for support, specifically because it gives no support and requires the horse to support itself instead of depending on the rider.

When taking a contact with, for example, a simple jointed snaffle, the inside rein asks for the inside bend. The outside rein is firm, and in order to work properly into the bend, the horse must lower his head form the poll. In other words, the inside rein creates the bend and the outside rein controls the degree of flexion.

However, he cannot truly work on a contact if his backend is switched off.

With a waterford, this control over the flexion and bend is not possible, because the horse cannot accept the contact, since the links in his mouth are too mobile.

Sawing with your hands, or even sqeezing each rein in turn, gentle as this may be, encourages the horse to duck his head to escape discomfort. He is not seeking the contact, he is evading, although to the casual onlooker, the results seem the same. This is the reason a lot of people still do this.

Sawing with a waterford is even more severe, since the links run so easily through the mouth. It is the equivalent of you putting a bicycle chain in your mouth and pulling it from side to side. As it is impossible to work on the bit in a waterford, there is no valid reason why you would want to saw your hands anyway.

I personally hate waterfords. Take a look at sustainabledressage.net for a full explaination of bits, their actions and common reactions to them.
 
What bit would you recommend then?

Have been told certain other bits will encourage evading the bit and encourage the cantering on spot routine. My horse did go very well with the Waterford....

If your horse went well without discomfort then stick with it :)
 
the boring answer? no bit alone is going to cure your problem - rushing at fences and bouncing on the spot are 99% of the time schooling and riding issues not bitting issues.

However, to begin the process of retraining, you obviously want to have an appropriate bit in whilst you do it! What bit did you use before the waterford?

The fact that she does bounce on the spot, rather than simply tank forwards suggests that she doesn't require a strong bit per se, and may go well in a snaffle still. I have always had a lot of success with a cherry roller - the rolling mouthpiece means the horse can't hang on the bit and take too much of a pull, and the copper metal encourages salivation and acceptance of the bit.

The waterford stops the horse pulling - but is much more appropriate for the type of horse that takes a deadweight downwards pull and becomes faster, rather than bouncy. It is by no means a kind bit simply because it's still a snaffle!
 
Thank you!!
We went back to the Snaffle last night - and oh boy, didn't my biceps, arms and wrists know it!!
My horse appears to canter on the spot coming off the corner and into the line of the jump. So I try and hold her at trot - this is where we have a few strides of canter on the spot, before going forward in trot - seems to be excitement. I don't really regard the on the spot thing as the main issue, more the strength of her as she is on the approach to a jump...even if we trot until a few paces before, when we do canter, its powerful and quick, not collected at all, but that will come with time. Also after the fence. After stringing a few fences together, my arms feel as if they will fall off, and holding her striding and getting it right become difficult. Maybe just schooling and gridwork will help with this...and keep the snaffle.

graciemoo x
 
Hi there, :D

I don't have any advice on bitting am afraid, but just thought I'd share an exercise I found very useful. Mine tended to rush to his fence then even faster to the next fence, getting faster and faster (= flatter and flatter) so I would jump 1 x fence that was set up half way down the arena and attempt to come back to halt by the end of the arena, so you canter over the fence then come back to halt. Once you are able to jump the fence and the horse has come right back to you (expecting to halt) do you calmly canter on to another fence. As soon as horse begins to rush you come back to halt. Just teaches them to wait for instruction on landing rather than bomb off to next jump. :)
 
Good idea. We have tried an exercise almost similar to this, with a fence on one side set up half way, and a fence on the other side of the arena half way down. Walk on approach (small fence), then trot a few strides before, halt before the end, and then trot approach, with canter a few strides before for the other fence, with a halt before the end. We will give it another go though - always willing to try everything possible.

graciemoo x
 
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