Well the weather is definately more "wintery" than "autumnal" today, so I thought I'd start a Winter Survival Guide thread! Maybe the mods will even make it a sticky
Add your hints and tips for surviving winter...and not going bankrupt in the process!
Here are mine:
Put hay in a dustbin and add a kettle full of water and put the lid on - steams your hay to keep the dust down.
Save time on a morning changeing rugs by investing in a good quality, breathable turnout rug and leaving it on in the stable - just be sure to remove it at least once a day to prevent rubs etc. After a wet day, the rugs will dry better on the horse's back than it will on a rug rack!
If you're short on time during the week, just remove the droppings and put fresh straw on top, leaving your big muck out for the weekend - it leaves you more time to ride.
Sudocrem or any zinc+castor oil cream is great for treating wounds and mud fever, and is a fraction of the cost of "horsey" creams. It makes a good preventative barrier cream for heels too.
Leather headcollars won't retain water (and are safer for turnout) so if your headcollars are left out in the open (on field gates etc) then investing in a leather one means no more stinky, soggy headcollars. If they get covered in mud, just hose them off and towel dry. You can get cheap ones on ebay for little more than the price of a nylon headcollar.
Feeding zinc capsules can help support the skin and reduce the risk of mud fever - it is the main ingredient in things like NAF MudGard - mine get 4 of Tesco's own "1 a day" zinc tablets.
Using a summer sheet as a base layer means the inside of your rugs stay cleaner for longer, as the summer sheet can just be washed in the machine, leaving your horse's coat cleaner too.
Adding warm water to feed (or soaking beet/nuts in it) makes a nice treat for a cold wet horse.
Try not to hose the legs off - the bacteria that causes mud fever gets in through cracked skin; the constant wetting and drying of the skin caused by repeated hosing off results in chapped, damaged skin which is a breeding ground for bacteria. It is much better to leave the mud to dry and then brush it off.
If applying a barrier cream, ensure legs are dry beforehand. Putting a barrier cream onto damp skin creates the perfect environment for damaging bacteria!
To stop feeds/beet freezing, put the bucket inside another (larger) bucket or box filled with straw, and cover. I used to put my morning haynet on top for added warmth.
Ski grease is apparantly the best thing for stopping snow balling in shod feet - my saddler recommended this and I will be trying it this winter after no success with vaseline, cornucresine and every other greasy substance ever made last winter.
Only clip if necessary, and give the right clip. The more hair you take off, the more rugs you need put on and the more feed you need to provide to maintain weight.
I will add more as I think
Add your hints and tips for surviving winter...and not going bankrupt in the process!
Here are mine:
Put hay in a dustbin and add a kettle full of water and put the lid on - steams your hay to keep the dust down.
Save time on a morning changeing rugs by investing in a good quality, breathable turnout rug and leaving it on in the stable - just be sure to remove it at least once a day to prevent rubs etc. After a wet day, the rugs will dry better on the horse's back than it will on a rug rack!
If you're short on time during the week, just remove the droppings and put fresh straw on top, leaving your big muck out for the weekend - it leaves you more time to ride.
Sudocrem or any zinc+castor oil cream is great for treating wounds and mud fever, and is a fraction of the cost of "horsey" creams. It makes a good preventative barrier cream for heels too.
Leather headcollars won't retain water (and are safer for turnout) so if your headcollars are left out in the open (on field gates etc) then investing in a leather one means no more stinky, soggy headcollars. If they get covered in mud, just hose them off and towel dry. You can get cheap ones on ebay for little more than the price of a nylon headcollar.
Feeding zinc capsules can help support the skin and reduce the risk of mud fever - it is the main ingredient in things like NAF MudGard - mine get 4 of Tesco's own "1 a day" zinc tablets.
Using a summer sheet as a base layer means the inside of your rugs stay cleaner for longer, as the summer sheet can just be washed in the machine, leaving your horse's coat cleaner too.
Adding warm water to feed (or soaking beet/nuts in it) makes a nice treat for a cold wet horse.
Try not to hose the legs off - the bacteria that causes mud fever gets in through cracked skin; the constant wetting and drying of the skin caused by repeated hosing off results in chapped, damaged skin which is a breeding ground for bacteria. It is much better to leave the mud to dry and then brush it off.
If applying a barrier cream, ensure legs are dry beforehand. Putting a barrier cream onto damp skin creates the perfect environment for damaging bacteria!
To stop feeds/beet freezing, put the bucket inside another (larger) bucket or box filled with straw, and cover. I used to put my morning haynet on top for added warmth.
Ski grease is apparantly the best thing for stopping snow balling in shod feet - my saddler recommended this and I will be trying it this winter after no success with vaseline, cornucresine and every other greasy substance ever made last winter.
Only clip if necessary, and give the right clip. The more hair you take off, the more rugs you need put on and the more feed you need to provide to maintain weight.
I will add more as I think